Rusty Talbot

Rusty is drawn to long routes and moving fast and efficiently through the mountains. With more than 30 years of climbing experience, he has rock and ice climbed extensively across the United States and Canada and has led mountaineering expeditions to Nepal and Alaska. His background includes summiting Denali—North America’s highest peak—on his first attempt, along with many classic routes such as the Grand Traverse of the Teton Range, the Beckey–Chouinard Route on South Howser Tower in the Canadian Bugaboos, the Weeping Wall in the Canadian Rockies, Epinephrine in Red Rock Canyon, Nevada, and Liberty Ridge on Mount Rainier.

Despite these far-flung experiences, Rusty’s favorite ice climbing is close to home. He believes the White Mountains of New Hampshire and the Northeast Kingdom of Vermont offer some of the most aesthetic, accessible, and consistently high-quality ice climbing in North America. His personal favorite route is the Black Dyke on Cannon Cliff, a New England classic that perfectly blends commitment, sustained movement, and atmosphere. For steep ice, he considers the climbs overlooking Lake Willoughby to be unmatched—among the best steep ice routes he has climbed anywhere.

Rusty’s guiding philosophy centers on sharing that experience and helping climbers grow. Whether introducing someone to their first ice climb, supporting intermediate climbers as they progress toward steeper terrain, or mentoring experienced climbers refining efficiency and decision-making, his focus is always on skill development, confidence, and enjoyment in a winter mountain environment.

Rusty is an AMGA Certified Ice Instructor and Single Pitch Instructor, an AMGA Assistant Rock Guide and Apprentice Alpine Guide, and a certified Wilderness First Responder.